• When to Dump that engine

    Posted on: September 18th, 2013 by admin 1 Comment

    Vehicle engines are amazing electro- mechanical units which send power to the wheels to set your car in motion-I guess we all know this. But what most might fail to recognize is that vehicle engines never come with specified and rigid life spans when in active use-engines are very likely to last as long as you pamper them to. High mileage engines largely used for long distance travel are bound to enjoy better lubrication than their city bound counterparts. In the same light, component wear is inevitable in engines as time goes by and engine management systems can only compensate to an extent.

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    Engines produced today are relatively more complex than what we had back in the day. In one of my many discussions with typical road-side mechanics, they maintain that traditional overhauling of engines-changing compression rings, oil rings and re-boring where necessary-is no guarantee that your vehicle will be back on the road in top shape once your engine develops certain un-fixable faults.

    Bottom-line, the fact your engine manages to set your vehicle in motion doesn’t mean your engine still has a little more juice in it, at times its cost effective to step aside and cut ties with that engine with unforgivable levels poor performance. But when do you do this? Here are some bankable telltale signs:

    Exhaust fumes fuming: blue flames for instance depicts intense oil combustion in the engine, while white fumes means either the rings are completely worn out or the cylinder walls are in bad shape. Very sound engines have water dripping off the exhaust pipes with clear fumes. Very dark fumes in the case of petrol engines means excessive burning of fuel-rich mixture of air and fuel-which in most cases is a consequence of improper vehicle timing if you are lucky.

    Soaking plugs: This simply means oil has managed to find its way to where it isn’t supposed to be; it’s only natural for mechanics to try tracing how this came about, but chances are that it isn’t something minor.

    Warped top cylinder: whatever caused the distortion must have damaged several other components that just can’t wait to breakdown pretty soon. The rigidity of the engine is compromised as the main hold-down bolts are not firmly in place.

    Expanded engine block: especially when you are dealing with an aluminium engine, this means your engine is closer to its final days of playing home to reciprocating pistons.

    Excessive loss of compression: engine torque generation is largely dependent on the compression action of cylinders and the thrust of the connecting rods. When for any known or unknown reason, engine compression isn’t what it’s supposed to be, you are bound to experience highly noticeable power losses causing the vehicle to feel heavier than it should be in motion.

    If your engine ‘knocks’: well this is one word that sends shivers down the spine of vehicle owners; as it means one thing-your engine has packed up. When this happens, your sprocket is stiffened and unable to rotate. Other confirmations include unusually charred engine components when disassembled.

    Engine overheats too frequently and it has nothing to do with the cooling system.

    When it isn’t financially wise to fix again: the problem here is at what point does it become financially unwise to spend more money on your car? Most vehicle owners might be stuck in the same cycle of encountering bad  mechanics always coming up with creative ways to rip them  off; however, the surest way to evaluate the real projected car expenses for your vehicle is by getting involved and carrying out independent research. For this to happen, you first must make out time for your vehicle.

    Remember that the engine is the heart of a vehicle.

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    One Response

    1. ogbogu uloma chijioke says:

      Why do engine starts itself after the car is turned off.if there is solution pls I will like u to share with me.

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